Virtually everyone travels the main roads in West Maui, South Maui and, of course, to and from the airport. Belying its reputation, the notorious Road to Hana is so improved that there is little left to complain about except the frequent rain. There are, however, roads less travelled that are worth the effort to find and explore.

Northward beyond Kapalua, Highway 340 narrows to two lanes and in some stretches even less, requiring cars to yield to oncoming traffic. This serpentine road takes you on a journey that compares to Bug Sur. You'll see crashing surf, dramatic cliffs, cattle-groomed valleys, and the enchanting village of Kahakuloa (right) in the shadow of imposing Kahakuloa Head. Here you can stretch your legs, stop for a refreshment, and browse the Kahakuloa Gallery. Continuing down the windward coast (after an impossibly narrow climb out of Kahakuloa), you're rewarded with panoramic vistas punctuated with deep gorges before reaching "civilization" in Wailuku.

A road even less travelled is the alternate route to Hana. This journey on Highway 31 around the bottom of Maui is, at once, eerie, desolate, and beautiful. If you have the stomach for such a demanding drive (a portion of which is on unimproved road), it's not to be missed! Highlights include the charming Tedeschi Winery, venerable Kaupo Store, restored 150-year old Hui Aloha Church, wild beaches, beautiful cliff-top pastures, and the simple last resting place of Charles W. Lindbergh. An added bonus: Having driven to Hana in this direction, you can return on the "official" road without seeing the same thing twice.